Monday Grousing

Items I wish restaurants would retire for a while:

• butternut squash soup
• seared scallops
• creme brulee (trio/duo/flavored/whatever)
• multiple desserts on tasting menus (5 savory courses and 3 desserts may technically be an 8-course menu, but come on!)
• mignardises (does anyone eat them?)
• gougeres

Recurring preparations that I still enjoy as long as executed well:

• tuna tartare
• molten chocolate cake (frankly, most chocolate desserts tend to be clunky and too sweet, as though the fact of chocolate excuses all)
• salumi
• cheese course
• sweetbreads

Items that I love but rarely see executed well:

• chilled soups
• burrata
• braised short ribs
• poached eggs
• lobster
• bearnaise sauce
• ramen (really sad that I have to go to New York for this)
• burger
• coffee
• croissant/brioche
• duck breast